Understanding Hair Types: Your Expert-Led Guide to Better Hair Days

Hair is more than just what covers your head. It can shape your self-image, help you express your personality, and even showcase your culture.  Understanding hair types is key to giving your mane the care it deserves. 

“Everyone’s hair is unique and it’s important to find the regimen that works best for your hair type,” says Knox Beasley, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. “Once you know your hair type you can start to look for products designed for that type of hair.” 

In this article, we cover the different types of hair and how to care for them. Consider this your crash course in hair types — class is in session!

Hair is complex, but whether yours is voluminous and curly or fine and wavy, the human hair shaft has three main parts: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. 

Hair typically falls into four different hair types.

• Type 1: straight

• Type 2: wavy

• Type 3: curly

• Type 4: kinky

When it comes to hair type, there are some common trends based on race, but they don't always follow a set pattern. 

Here’s what the research shows: 

• European hair is mostly wavy (about 47 percent) or straight (roughly 41 percent), with less frequent instances of curly hair (around 13 percent) 

• Asian hair is primarily straight (47 percent),  wavy (41 percent),  with fewer occurrences of curly hair (12 percent)

• African hair, on the other hand, is mostly curly (95 percent), with some incidences of wavy hair (5 percent)

When you think about different hair types, you probably picture either curly or straight. 

But guess what? There are actually dozens of subcategories of hair types. Each with unique hair porosity and texture. 

Knowing your hair type is the key to giving it the best care. So, let’s take a closer look at the main hair types and their subcategories. Hair subtypes are primarily based on hair texture (e.g., thickness of individual strands). 

Type 1: Straight Hair Types 

Straight hair lies flat without bends or waves and tends to get greasy and shiny quickly. This happens because scalp oil travels faster down straight hair than curly hair. 

There are three subcategories of straight hair:

• Type 1A. Most common in women of Asian descent, type 1A hair is very straight and fine.

• Type 1B. Still very straight, type 1B hair is thicker, with medium texture and more volume.

• Type 1C. This type of straight hair is thicker and coarser.  

Caring for Straight Hair 

Straight hair distributes oils from the scalp well, so moisture isn’t usually a concern. Steer clear of leave-in products, as they can make your hair look greasy, dull, or flat. 

Instead, consider using dry shampoo to soak up excess oil between washes. Wash your hair every few days to remove sebum and buildup. 

If your straight hair lacks volume, opt for a volumizing shampoo and conditioner to give it a lift. 

Type 2: Wavy Hair Types

There’s something captivating about wavy hair — whether it’s effortless beachy waves or a full-on glam look. If you have natural waves, consider us a tad envious.

Here’s a breakdown of of wavy hair subtypes:

• Type 2A. Think fine and thin with gentle, S-shaped waves. This type of wave is generally easy to style. 

• Type 2B. A little frizzier than 2A, this type has medium thickness, making it a bit more textured.

• Type 2C. Thick, coarse, and wavy, 2C hair is more prone to frizz and can be a bit of a styling challenge. 

Caring for Wavy Hair 

People don’t always realize they have wavy hair, mistaking it for straight or curly. This can lead to using the wrong products and not getting the best results. 

The key to caring for wavy hair is controlling frizz without weighing down your natural waves. Focus on adding moisture and volume. 

Choose lightweight shampoos and conditioners that hydrate and moisturize the hair shaft. Use a moisturizing hair mask once a week to lock in hydration and reduce frizz.  

To keep your natural waves frizz-free, apply a little styling mousse from root to tip while your hair is still damp. For extra moisture and frizz control, use a small amount of hair oil from the middle of the shaft to the ends, avoiding the scalp to prevent greasiness.

When drying, use a diffuser and rest the ends of your hair on the attachment to dry it. For extra frizz control, turn off the heat when your hair is 90 percent dry and apply a finishing cream.

Type 3: Curly Hair Types

We all love those adorable, frizz-free curls on little babies and kids, right? But as we get older, managing curly hair can get tricky if you don’t know how to style it.

Cool fact: Your follicle shape influences your hair’s curl (or lack thereof). Curly hair tends to have a curved follicle contour.

Curly hair strands tend to have a more oval or flat cross-sectional compared to the round shaft of straight hair. 

Whether it’s corkscrews or looser ringlets, think of hair with bounce.

The three curly hair subtypes include: 

• Type 3A. These curls are defined, thick, and shiny, but can sometimes get frizzy. 

• Type 3B. This type has tighter curls and often includes a combination of textures.

• Type 3C. Known for very tight curls or kinks (about the width of a pen), type 3C hair is dense, voluminous, and generally easy to style. 

Caring for Curly Hair 

Moisture, moisture and more moisture. Curly hair craves hydration. 

Look for hair products with hydrating ingredients to prevent frizz and give curls that healthy, bouncy look.

Tangles are a common curly hair problem. Try gently running a comb through your hair when it’s damp to detangle knots. A leave-in conditioner or hair mask might make detangling a little easier. 

Your shampoo and conditioner really matter too. Sulfate-free shampoos can help reduce dryness, while conditioners with oils and silicones can help reduce friction on the cuticle. You may also want to experiment with styling products, like mousse or curl jelly, to control frizz and define your spirals.

Type 4: Very Curly or Kinky

Hair of the very curly or kinky variety has very tight, sometimes well-defined curls. It tends to be fairly coarse in texture but is also delicate and prone to damage.

There are three subtypes of kinky hair:

• Type 4A. This hair is soft in texture with tight, well-defined curls or kinks.

• Type 4B. Hair of this type has very tight curls, but they’re less defined, soft and often fragile.

• Type 4C. This type of hair has ultra-tight curls. 

Caring for Kinky Hair 

Like type 3 curly hair, kinky or very curly hair needs plenty of moisture. A good moisturizing shampoo and conditioner are essential because sebum struggles to travel down coily hair strands, leading to dryness.

For extra hydration, apply a weekly coconut oil mask to the ends and follow up with a leave-in conditioner to prevent tangles and deeply nourish your strands.

Other products like hair oils, moisture-rich curl creams, and serums can lock in hydration and add definition to tight coils, while a light pomade can help with styling.

Be careful with heat styling and frequent blow drying, as this hair type may be more prone to damage. Air-drying is often the best option for very curly hair.

This hair type is common in people with African ancestry and is more susceptible to surface damage and breakage.

Keep in mind, natural hair curl shrinkage is also a thing with very tightly coiled hair types. This isn’t a reflection of your curl pattern but rather moisture coming out of the curl, causing it to contract even further.

Hair comes in all sorts of textures — from super thin to mega thick. When we talk about hair texture, we’re really just referring to the thickness or circumference of the strand.

And sure, your genes play a big role in determining your natural hair texture, but let’s not forget that external factors like hair dye or other chemical treatments can affect the texture of your hair over time. 

Fine Hair

Fine hair tends to be thin and fragile, often lacking the medulla, the innermost layer of the hair shaft.  Because it’s so thin, it can quickly become oily and greasy. It also tends to get weighed down by products and is more prone to breakage than thicker hair.

Medium Hair

Most women have medium-thickness hair, which is thicker than fine hair. This type of hair usually has two layers — the cortex and cuticle — but sometimes includes the medulla. Medium hair tends to hold hairstyles better, has more volume, and is less prone to breakage. 

Thick Hair

Thick or coarse hair has three layers — the medulla, cortex, and cuticle — making it look fuller than fine or medium hair.  

Thick hair holds hairstyles well and is more tolerant to heat, styling products, and hair dye than other textures. It’s also less likely to break. But it can get frizzy in humid weather and takes longer to dry.

Naturally Thin Hair vs. Hair Loss

Have you noticed your hair part getting wider or more scalp showing? Is your ponytail looking a bit thinner? These could be signs of hair loss.  

The good news? Female pattern hair loss is typically treatable, says Beasley.

“There are several effective treatment options for female pattern hair loss, such as spironolactone, minoxidil, and finasteride,” Beasley says. “It takes about 6 months to see results from any hair loss medication.”

Let’s look at some of these science-backed treatments: 

• Minoxidil. This FDA-approved treatment (also known as Rogaine^®) for female pattern hair loss (AKA androgenetic alopecia), will likely be your healthcare provider’s first recommendation for treating hair thinning. It’s believed to work by speeding up your hair follicles’ entry into the growth phase. Think of it like an espresso shot for your hair follicles.

• Oral minoxidil. If you prefer pills to topical treatments, this once-a-day pill might be a good option for you. Didn’t see results with topical minoxidil? The oral version might work better.  Some people lack enough of the enzyme follicular sulfotransferase in their hair follicles, which is essential for minoxidil to work. So, the pill form might be more effective for them.

• Topical finasteride and minoxidil spray. This prescription-strength hair growth spray designed for women contains 6% minoxidil and 0.3% finasteride. Research suggests it’s a promising hair loss treatment. Healthcare providers typically only prescribe it for postmenopausal women. 

• Spironolactone. This once-daily prescription pill can help treat hormonal female hair loss and encourage new hair growth. It does this by blocking androgen production and decreasing the amount of DHT (dihydrotestosterone) in your hair follicles. DHT is not a friend to those who are sensitive to it — it’s the hormone that causes hair follicles to produce thinner, weaker hair strands. 

The first step in addressing hair loss, Beasley says, is to speak with a healthcare professional. “First we have to determine the diagnosis,” he says. “Once we have the diagnosis, then we have a discussion about the potential causes of their hair loss and what treatments would work best to stop and potentially reverse the hair loss.”

Knowing your hair type is like knowing your romantic type. Once you know what your type is, it’s a lot easier to make the next move.

Whether you have straight hair or curly, dry hair, the right hair care routine can make a big difference. Here’s what to remember:

• Embrace your hair texture. Learning how to care for your unique hair type can make all the difference in how your hair looks and feels — and how you feel, too!

• Notice the little things. Take note of how your hair looks when experimenting with new styling products. Issues like hair loss in women do happen, so don’t overlook the signs.

• Take action. If you notice signs of thinning hair, like a widening part or more visible scalp, there are many effective hair loss treatments that can work for all types of hair. Read our guide on female pattern hair loss to get a better understanding of genetic hair loss.

We also have to mention that the right haircuts and hairstyles for women with hair loss can make a huge difference. Find out which look is right for you in our guide.

If you’re looking for help with hair loss, take our short quiz and start a hair consultation today.